Kintsu, Colchester, Essex: ‘Style as well as substance’ – restaurant review

Thoughtful, clever cooking that errs on the side of tasty Amid all the bunting and hoopla of the platinum jubilee back in 2022, you may well have missed that Colchester, Britain’s oldest recorded settlement, got an upgrade from town to city status.

And, as we all know, no true city is complete without at least one fancy restaurant that serves the likes of duck liver mousse on lattice tuiles. Well, in Colchester, Kintsu takes that slot. Or at least…