I closed my eyes and stuck my finger on a map of western Europe: ‘This is where we’re going on holiday!’

Sick of relying on internet recommendations, I left my next destination to chance. Luckily, it led to me discovering a magical hamlet in the Cévennes mountains of south-central France An unruly rabble bursts on to the street: a noisy eruption, bubbling towards us.

This isn’t closing time on the Croisette in Cannes. A flock of sheep bustles past our cottage towards the shade of a huge chestnut tree, driven by three generations of herders and their dogs. The waterlike cacophony of their bells slows until only the odd tink tink punctuates the cicadas’…