Europe’s wildest pilgrimage route: a trek through the mountains of north-west Sweden

A remote 18th-century chapel deep in Sami lands is the goal of the Präststigen, a 37-mile trail that traverses some of the country’s most spectacular scenery I wasn’t exactly in “Sunday best”, but I had made some effort.

Well, I’d changed my underwear for the first time in a couple of days and given myself a baby-wipe bath. Still, as we filed into the chapel at Alkavare, I felt more a member of an expedition than a congregation. We sat on the low wooden…