Beyond the bale: Can Pakistan’s cotton sector be rebuilt from the ground up?

Pakistan’s cotton sector has long been the backbone of the country’s economy. The textile industry contributes roughly eight percent to national GDP and provides livelihoods for nearly 10 million people. But the crop that once powered Pakistan’s economy is now in deep crisis. In 2004, Pakistan produced more than 14 million bales of cotton. Two decades later, national output has fallen to between 4. 8 and 5. 6 million bales, depending on the season — a decline of roughly 60 to 70 percent from its peak. The decline has several interconnected causes. Farmers are increasingly abandoning cotton because of poor yields, volatile prices and competition from crops such as sugarcane and rice. More than 90pc of Pakistan’s roughly 1. 5 million cotton farmers cultivate less than five hectares, making it difficult to afford modern machinery, improved techniques or absorb losses from a bad season.

The effectiveness of Bt cotton, which dominates Pakistan’s cotton cultivation, has also declined, leaving farmers increasingly exposed to pests such as pink bollworm. Heatwaves, erratic rainfall and water shortages have added further pressure, particularly in Sindh. The crisis is also a crisis of livelihoods. An International Labour Organisation study found widespread labour exploitation across the cotton supply chain, including inadequate wages, insecure employment and limited social protection. Women perform much of the manual work but face barriers to training, resources and decision-making. Child labour also remains common. Several initiatives are attempting to reverse the decline. The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), the world’s largest cotton sustainability programme, promotes better practices in pesticide use, water efficiency, soil health, biodiversity and decent work. In Pakistan, the…