The place that never freezes: the Arctic habitat where global heating threatens more ice, not less

The race to study the North Water between Canada and Greenland before it changes has led to a bold plan for an Inuit-run protected area Electric-blue meltwater sprays up under Terry Noah’s snowmobile as he races across sea ice extending out from Canada’s northernmost public community: Grise Fiord in Nunavut, a hamlet of 144 people closer to Murmansk in Russia than the Canadian city of Toronto.

The bay’s cliffs loom higher and higher like stone icebergs as he approaches his destination across the…